Dog Spelled Forward :: Dog training and behavior consulting services for Bergen County, New Jersey

 

“Yes!”

Dog training is about communication.

littlecaffeine.jpg As I said earlier, we don’t know what our dogs are thinking, or even how they think. Chances are though, it’s not in the sentences and paragraphs that we tend to use.

But we can communicate with them. If you have any doubts, check out the agility videos in my videos section and explain to me how that trainer achieved that level of performance without an almost constant stream of communication between himself and his dog.

The most basic form of communication in training is the positive reward marker. It is a signal (usually audible) indicating that the behavior being performed at that very moment is correct or desirable. Some trainers use a clicker (a small device that makes a clicking noise) while others use a word such as “Yes”. With marine animals some trainers use a whistle. The only real requirement is a signal that is distinct.

The marker is “loaded” or “charged” by creating an association between the marker and a reinforcer, usually food. This is done by giving the signal and following it with the reward. Some trainers will do this in conjunction with a basic behavior such as making eye contact, other will just pair the two stimuli until the relationship is apparent to the dog.

One important aspect of the positive reward marker is that the reinforcer does not have to immediately follow the signal - there can be a delay of a few seconds.

A clear and unambiguous means of communication has now been established: when this signal is sent a reward will follow. The implication being, “I like it when you do that.” Moreover, we can give this signal at the moment of the desired behavior and then reward our dogs a few seconds later: we not only don’t have to carry the food in hand, we can hide it, paving the way for removing constant rewards and also replacing food with other reinforcers such as play.

Being able to send this clear signal whenever we see what we like (and are prepared to reward it) is very powerful. We can communicate behaviors we want to see more of, even when we didn’t ask for them. For example, every time a jumpy puppy’s rear end touches the floor we can mark that moment. Over time, jumping may decrease. Every time a distracted dog looks at his human, the moment can be marked. Where will the distracted dog’s attention tend to wander to more often?

Training behaviors also becomes much easier. We can now communicate exactly what we are looking for, as opposed to communicating what we do not want, which may mean repeated punishments and maybe even training by process of elimination.

Sunday Silliness

Here’s a chimpanzee learning to ride a Segway. Note how he corrects himself after a couple of crashes.



The Magic of Eye Contact

gage.jpgDog training is about communication.

I want my dog to sit when I ask:

1) I lure her into a sit and reward her her for it.
2) I start to say “sit” and then lure her into it and reward her.
3) Lather, rinse, repeat.
4) After a few more trials she sits when I say sit.

I didn’t teach her how to sit. I taught her what the “sit” sound means.

In order to be successful, training needs to involve two way communication. While dogs don’t speak in sentences and it is literally impossible for us to get “inside their heads” they are constantly providing information to to us via “body language” and their behaviors.

There is one form of communication that we primates use that dogs can use in almost the same way: eye contact. Eye contact means “you have my attention.” When we call our dog’s name, what we are looking for is eye contact, very much the same way we expect it when we call a person’s name.

When we train behaviors such as wait, stay and heel, we “shape” our dogs into giving us eye contact. A good trainer never releases a dog from a wait or a stay without eye contact and most trainers are probably more concerned with where their dog is looking during a “heel” than anything else.

Last week I was out walking one of my dogs early in the morning. I was not feeling well and was really not very connected to Gage at the time. We walked across a long municipal parking lot that is always empty at that time of day to his favorite spot, just outside the entrance. This is a very quiet area and Gage is probably my best loose leash walker, so I can get away with not paying attention.

We got to the far end of the lot and went through the smaller part of the entrance gate for people. The larger part (for vehicles) was closed and locked. After we went through, we stopped. I stood there for a moment, probably still under the influence of Nyquil and definitely inadequately caffeinated. I looked down at Gage. His body was pointed across the entrance of the lot, directly at his favorite spot. He turned and looked me dead in the eye, as if to say “Can we go there? I really need to go.” We did, and he did.

We brought Gage into our home about 3 years ago. He was already 6 - 8 months old and terrified of everything, especially people. Getting any sort of eye contact from him was very difficult. He now uses it to tell me where to walk him.

Two-way communication indeed.

Read this. Read this. Read this.

IMG_1583.jpgDale Carnegie said “Remember that a man’s name is to him the sweetest and most important sound in any language.” But I think he missed the forest for the trees: what we really love is the sound of our own voices. We love to talk, and if we don’t get some sort of acknowledgment, we tend to repeat ourselves.

Meanwhile dogs don’t send or receive very much information vocally. Sure, there are plenty of dogs - entire breeds actually - that seem to love the sound of their own barking, but this is not a dog’s primary way of transmitting or and this is important, receiving information.

I’ll repeat that.

Vocal communication is not a dog’s primary way of transmitting or and this is important, receiving information.

When we train a dog to do something “on command”, such as sit when we say “sit” or lie down when say “down,” we are not teaching them what those words mean. We have assigned a sound (a cue) to an action. We could just as easily get them to sit when we ring a bell or lie down when we snap our fingers.

When we repeat our commands to a dog, one of two things happen. They either learn to not respond the first time: “sit” becomes “sit. sit. sit.” Or worse, they learn to ignore it completely. Think of what happens when the radio stations discover (or decide) that a song is popular. After the 1,000,000,000,000th time it comes on you don’t hear it (or are tempted to jump out of the car, but I digress.)

This effect is what trainers are trying to avoid when they tell you to not repeat your commands. It’s really tempting to repeat a cue when a dog doesn’t respond right away and even the “pros” do it at times, but there’s good reason to try to say things once and wait it out.

Training With Treats

00009_13.jpg
Some people have a real problem with the idea of using treats to train a dog. They think that it’s “bribery” or a “crutch.”

When food is used properly in training it is being used as a reinforcer. This type of training uses operant conditioning to teach (or perhaps un-teach) a dog behaviors. (Think of the word operant in terms of operating on the environment and being conditioned by the result.)

Food is used most often as a positive reinforcer: something that is presented when a dog performs a behavior that we want to see more frequently. The addition (that’s where positive comes from) of the food reinforces the behavior.

The science behind this influences everything from which park benches pigeons return to in city parks to whether or not you are going to order takeout from the same restaurant you did last Friday night. It’s not up for debate. It’s a natural phenomena.

The reinforcer doesn’t have to be food. It just has to be, well…reinforcing. Some dogs will “work” for a game of fetch while others will watch you throw the ball and just stand there. Some dogs will work for a game of tug, others a scratch behind the ears, and still others an opportunity to chew on an old shoe.

Trainers use food for a very simple reasons: most dogs will work for food. Some may require really interesting food, and others may even need to be fed a meal during training (I.E. not fed before class), but when it comes to reinforcers food is the lowest common denominator and works very well in a room with 6 or 7 other dogs.

A good trainer will introduce the idea of using other reinforcers early in your training and get the treat out of your hands very quickly, but there’s nothing wrong with using food in a classroom to introduce new behaviors. As a matter or fact, there’s some pretty basic science behind it.

Retractable Leashes

Like many trainers, I don’t like to see retractable leashes in my classes and ask that handlers bring six foot long nylon, cotton or leather leashes. Many students are surprised when this comes up. Why don’t I like them?

First, it’s worth explaining what I think a leash is used for: keeping your dog from walking (or running) away from you. That’s it. Nothing more, nothing less. (It’s not a means of communication, but that’s a different discussion.)

So right off the bat, the retractable leash sends a mixed signal - sometimes your dog can walk away from you, and sometimes she can’t. How does she know? She pulls and sees if she can. If she can’t, she tries again. And again. And again. Already you can see how training a dog to walk nicely on a leash when pulling on the leash is how she figures out if it’s OK to walk away from you is nearly impossible.

As far as classes go, retractable leashes are almost impossible to use effectively. During a class you need to be able to keep your dog near (which is difficult enough if it is her first class,) have a hand free for treats, perhaps have another hand free for a clicker an oh yeah, learn something. The retractable leash makes this twice as difficult with its rather large handle and its tendency to slip into “unlocked mode.” I frequently recommend that students step on their leash while working on an exercise in order to free up a hand, but this doesn’t work with retractable leashes either because the fine nylons leads will slip under most shoes.

Last, and by no means not the least, is safety. After effectively training your dog to pull on leash, you are now betting her safety on two things: that you will have the leash “locked” when it needs to be and that the locking mechanism will hold at the critical moment when your dog lunges after a tennis ball on the street, a squirrel or another dog that doesn’t want to be lunged at.

If you want to give your dog some freedom, buy a long line and a “snap-back” and find a safe place to play. With some practice and some training, a long line can be a lot more fun anyway!

Agility on TV!

The AKC Agility Invitational is on Animal Planet Sunday. Here’s a link to the schedule, including all of the reruns.

Don’t know what agility is? To oversimplify, it’s essentially an obstacle course for dogs.

Take a look at this video (with a slightly odd ending):




and here’s the same team, on a different run from a different angle:

Squidoo and Training With Treats

I’ve been playing around with Squidoo for the past week, and have made a few pages.

Playing tug - which is similar, but slightly different from this tug page.

Body Language - which is also similar to a page here.

and a new page about training with treats which will have a companion page here next week.

Check ‘em out and enjoy!

Aliya the Bubble Blowing Beluga



Not strictly dog-related, but very cool nonetheless. According to the editors at Scientific American belugas and dolphins both have a knack for bubble-ring-blowing.

Mocha the Mighty

Mocha

Mocha is a Silky Terrier puppy in Northern New Jersey. Her Mom decided to start her out with training at the tender young age of 12 weeks, which is a great time for a puppy.

Mocha did wonderfully! She and her Mom did a wonderful job with clicker training and Mocha’s progress with “sit”, “down”, “wait”, “come when called”, “leave it” and even “stay” (an advanced behavior for a young puppy) would be impressive for an adult dog, let alone a young puppy.

Mocha also plays a great game of tug, and by the time she’s an adult there’s a chance she’ll be competing in the Olympic High Jump Competition.

Canine Body Postures

This is an article in 2 parts. Part 2 is here, This part is more “talk,” while the other has more photos and two very informative videos. Reading this page first will give you a deeper understanding of the topic.

Canine body postures are usually interpreted in terms of emotional states: happy, angry, aggressive etc. Since we cannot prove that dogs think in a language, the term “postures” is usually preferred.

Some people do attempt to assign more sophisticated reasoning to body postures, On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals - suggests that dogs send signals out to other creatures in a deliberate effort to mediate and/or prevent conflict. This implies that dogs think on a very sophisticated level; that they have theory of mind This is a controversial topic in some circles. For more information check out the book and the wikipedia article.

Regardless of how you feel about “calming signals,” dogs do constantly send signals that provide us with information about their emotional states, and being aware of them can improve our relationship with them and prevent unnecessary conflicts.

If there is one most important rule to “reading” dogs it that it is never correct to read a dog based on one particular part or aspect of his posture. A wagging tail in and of itself means nothing. Neither does a wagging tongue, forward ears or raised hackles. Always look at the entire dog in context.

MadisunThis a happy dog that is soliciting play. She is in a "play bow" (which is difficult to see from this photo), where the front legs are bent with the elbows touching the ground and the rear end high in the air. A "play bow" looks a lot like a stretch.

Her mouth is open with loose lips and a flapping tongue. Her eyes are "soft" and just "look" happy. Here is where context becomes very important. I took this photo, and I know that the dog wanted to play - it is difficult to translate that context without telling a whole story. (I won’t.) However, under different circumstances, for example with a strange dog and no play bow, a dog looking me in the eye would mean something different.

Some indicators of a happy dog are:
- relaxed, loose, body
- fast, vigorous tail wag, usually involving the entire rear end
- tail thumping on the floor when sitting or lying down
- loose “floppy” lips
- open mouth with a loose tongue
- rhythmic, slowing panting (as opposed to rapdi panting, which means exertion or excitement)

This dog is fearful and intimidated. His ears are pulled back - something you would know if you had seen the dog when not fearful. Here again, context is key. He seems to be leaning or pulling away from the camera and he has a "half moon" eye - part of the white is showing. His lips are pulled back into a fear grimace. (Again, easier to see if you know the dog)

The "half-moon" eye can also indicate agitation or potential aggression - either way, this is a dog that you want to leave alone.

Another key signal from an anxious dog is a sudden out-of-context action such as:
- repeated yawning
- licking chops without the presence of food, usually to the nose
- sudden scratching and biting at self
- suddenly sniffing the ground or other object

We call these “displacement behaviors,” where the dog almost seems to be looking for something else to do to distract himself of the other individual. Think of looking at your watch or Blackberry while riding in the elevator with a stranger or someone you don’t want to talk to.




This dogs looks aggressive. While it is difficult to see, his eyes seem fixed on one point ahead. The eyes also look very different from the friendly dog before. They have an unquantifiable “hard” aspect to them.

The dog seems to be leaning forward. His ears may even be pointing forward. The lips are also pushed forward, in what appears to be a snarl. The entire dog seems to be pointing ahead, toward his target.

Some key signs that may indicate aggression -
- piloerection; raising of the “hackles” indicates excitement and arousal. This may mean aggression, or it may just mean excitement. Context is very important yet again.
- staring - dogs don’t tend to stare at something or someone for very long unless they are ready to lunge or give chase.
- tight, stiff body postures.
- raised posture. An agressive dog tries to look big
- tight lips, front teeth exposed


How To Play Tug

Update: check out the extended version of this page on Squidoo

Playing tug is a great way to have fun, bond with your dog, and provide him or her with important exercise and mental stimulation. Fitting it into your dog’s exercise regimen has many benefits for both you and her.

Some clients are surprised that I recommend playing tug because they have been told it teaches dogs to bite or develop other nasty habits. Others have been told to make sure they always “win” because of that mystical “pack leader” thing they hear about on TV.

Because of these myths, I think it’s worth providing a quick demo and explaining how I have been taught to play tug and how it can be a fun, rewarding, and educational game.

Tug must be played with rules. These rules keep people and dogs safe.

1) The toy is released when the dog is told to release it.
2) Teeth never touch the person or the person’s clothes.
3) The toy is only taken when permission is given.
4) The human is responsible for keeping things under control.

A game of tug should pretty much follow this script: the dog performs a behavior (or few) on cue, offer the toy, play tug, the dog releases the toy on cue…lather, rinse, repeat.

The commands in between the tug sessions perform a few functions. First, they mix in some mental stimulation in with the physical exercise. They also act as a control for the dogs excitement level. If your dog start to get too wild, mix in more behaviors in between sessions, maybe ask for a “wait” or a “stay” as demonstrated in the video. The play sessions in the video were made deliberately slow and sedate because I was limited in what I could film and wanted to keep the action easy to follow.

Finally, mixing in the cues is training the dog without treats. After a few sessions, you should have dog that will “work” for a tug toy. How cool is that?

In the video Caffeine has a hard time giving up the tug toy (it’s Buddha’s and she is obsessed with it,) which gives me an opportunity to point out how to deal with a dog that will not release the toy: stop playing. Don’t yell, don’t pull harder - just stop. Pulling and raising your voice will simply excite the dog and probably make her think you are still playing. Stopping makes the game boring.

When initially introducing the release cue, you may need to use food. Take a treat and literally place it on her nose. She’ll open her mouth, dropping the toy, and take the treat. Say “yes!” and then give the tug toy back. After a few repetitions, say “give” or “release” (or whatever cue you wish to use) before you place the treat on her nose. After a few sessions, stop using the treat.

If teeth touch you or your clothes. Stop the game. Again, do not get excited, push or shout. The game stops and the dog has to calm down before the game continues.

Gage is initially not interested in playing tug at all. He is a very nervous dog and, believe or not, is shy around the camera. I took advantage of this and started out with the same mistake many people make: I held the toy up in front of his face and waited for him to take it. Most dogs, especially a nervous one, will not respond to this. I coaxed him into playing by soliciting a chase, a strategy that usually works with a reluctant dog. Sometimes you have to try tricks to make the toy a bit more interesting.

Also, some dogs have preferences when it comes to toys. Caffeine usually plays with a plain nylon rope. She will not under any circumstances play with the cotton rope toy I use with Gage. Gage would immediately tear the Buddha’s sheepy tug or Caffeine’s rope to shreds with his “hard” mouth and the way he pulls when he finally gets excited.

Find a toy that your dogs loves and use it only for tug. When the game is over, put it away, out of sight. When the tug toy comes out, your dog should always be excited and ready to play!

Tug teaches your dog how to play. Rather than teaching them to bite, it teaches them what to bite and when. Dogs know how to bite - the trick is to get them to bite the right things - toys. Tug doesn’t have winners or losers (unless you count the poor toy.)

Now go play with your dog!

Dog Parks

I don’t like dog parks. Most of them are poorly run, if “run” isn’t too generous a term. Today I came across a great example of what can go bad in a dog park.

Go ahead, read while I wait.

Done? Good. So let’s recap: A greyhound, which is bred to chase, capture and kill small game, attacked and severely injured a small fluffy animal. The small fluffy animal was a dog, which the owner (and apparently the reporter) think should make a difference.

It doesn’t. (That’s a PDF.)

Even without being present, I feel confident saying that the greyhound didn’t “turn mean.” He turned greyhound. Neither of these dogs should have been allowed to get close to each other at all off leash, and on leash they shouldn’t have been allowed to get close enough to each other to bite.

Obviously, the owner of the greyhound was irresponsible.

But, quoting the article:

“She acknowledged that Lafayette’s dog park has a separate enclosure for smaller dogs, but she said Shiloh was attacked on the way out of the park and that small dogs shouldn’t have to be hustled under lock and key out of the dog park for fear of being mauled.”

She wasn’t exactly acting responsibly either. A cynical person might say that she seems to think it’s everyone else’s job to be responsible so that her dog can run free without her worrying about it.

Either her dog was in the same area as the larger dogs, or if you read the comments where she sort of changes her story a little, her little fluffy dog was traveling through the large dog area. In coursing that’s called “the lure.”

My objective isn’t to trash this story, or diminish the seriousness of what happened to this poor dog. It’s to tell you this: stay away from dog parks, or at a minimum know exactly where you are taking your dog, who is going to be there, what to expect, and how to keep your dog safe and under control.

Never assume the other person is being more responsible than you. If you do, then you’re right.

How to Perform Canine CPR



What would do if your dog was injured? This isn’t something we like to think about, but it can certainly happen. Above is a very helpful video on how to perform CPR on a dog from Pets America.

Also, Here is a helpful PDF from Drs. Lori (DMV) and Henry (MD) Feldman.

Easy Walk Harness

Easy Walk Harness

Pulling on leash is a common problem for most dog owners. While there is no “quick fix” for this problem, sometimes equipment can help quite a bit with training. Dogs pull on leash because it works, or at least they think is does. They want to go somewhere, they pull, they get there. So how do you stop it?

1. Don’t let them pull.
2. Reward them when they don’t.

Sounds easy. It actually is, if you have the patience and can handle some very, very short in distance but long in time walks.The most direct way to train walking nicely on leash is to reward it.

The Easy Walk Harness simplifies this process by greatly hampering the dog’s ability to pull. Putting the leash clasp in front of the dog reduces her leverage, and literally turns her around when she pulls. It also makes handling a large, strong, dog possible for smaller people.

It’s not a panacea, and training is still required , but it can be a lifesaver.

Dog vs. Balloons



This is pretty entertaining, and good example of a creative way to exercise your dog. Simon seems to be a Jack Russell Terrier, and probably has a lot energy and a desire to chase and bite things. If he doesn’t eat the balloons, letting him have some fun by giving him something he is permitted to chase and bite is not a bad idea.

I love when the guy calls off the time part way through…I swear it looks like Simon speeds up.

The Dog Whisperer

I’m frequently asked about Cesar Millan, National Geographic Channel’s ironically-named “Dog Whisperer.” I can’t really say that I am a fan.

This article about Dr. Ian Dunbar, an icon in the dog training world, has an interesting sidebar comparing Dr. Dunbar and Mr. Millan. The article has a lot of information about Dr. Dunbar himself, and is worth a read for anyone interested in how dogs really learn and should be taught.

January Newsletter

It’s come to my attention that despite my best efforts the January Newsletter still looks terrible in Gmail.

Here’s a link to the newsletter that you can view in your favorite web browser: January 2008

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