How can I get my dog to calm down?

By Eric Goebelbecker | Published: January 1, 2010

Crazy Brittany Spaniel Mix

Buddha is feeling crazy!

Exercising impulse control isn’t something that comes naturally to all dogs, especially adolescents (those aged roughly 6 – 24 months). But we can help our dogs quite a bit with some basic training. Although it is completely unscientific, I like to describe impulse control as a “muscle” that can be developed and strengthened with exercise.

Training “wait” is one way to teach your dog to display some patience. “Wait” is exactly what the name implies: waiting for a release before doing something. Many dog people already perform this exercise at mealtimes, but it is a very useful behavior just about any time. For example, teaching your dog to wait before passing through a doorway, going down stairs, or exiting the car can be not only more pleasant for you, but also more safe for everyone.

The reward for waiting is being released and allowed to continue. It’s not necessary to use food with this behavior. As you will see below, I only use food after the wait to get some additional attention after the release. Over time your dog will learn that good things come to he who, well, waits!

When you train “wait” you use a release word, just like with “stay.”. Most people use “OK!” for this. It’s important to be sure that your dog does not move until she hears your release. It’s also good to get in the habit of only releasing your dog when her attention is on you, so you will see me wait for my dog to make eye contact with me before I release him.

Do not use the leash to stop your dog. Use your body to block her and/or occupy space. Doing this you can convey what you want your dog to do without using the leash or even touching her.

I also add an extra step to the exercise. After the release I wait for eye contact from my dog and then mark it with a “yes” and reward my dog.

In the video below I use a pair of traffic cones to demonstrate training Gage how to “wait” at a doorway.

The video is broken down into 4 nominal steps:

  1. First, get a brief moment of hesitation at the “door.”
  2. Next, pivot in front of your dog and add a bit more duration. (Gage doesn’t try to get past me, if your dog does, block her way like a soccer goalie.)
  3. Keep pivoting in front and add a few steps backward before the release.
  4. Get rid of the pivot.

There is a brief handout on training this here.

 

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  • musicofnote
    Wow, just we're working on now. Mostly for the case of encountering strange dogs, with the goal of beaing able to lead her past the dog, without her liunging, trying to make friends. Not that we hve anything against her making friends, just there is a time and place for everything and sometimes it's better if she doesn't.
    So when we see another dog, I step in front of her and demand a "look" with loose leash. As long as she gives me her attention, she gets a treat. I walk backwards with her walk walking forwards towards the strange dog. If she locks onto the strange dog, I make a U-turn, leading her away from the dog (her back is now to the dog) until I can once again turn her toards the dog and continue.
    2 weeks ago, I could not get within 50 yards of another dog - and she also refused her extra-special treats. The last time I tried this 2 days ago, I was able to lad her thusly past the dog that had been approaching us.
    I'm hoping, that within the next few weeks, I will be able to lead her at heel while rewarding her, gradually leaving out the tube of tuna and replacing it with a target hand.

    Great blog you have here!
  • It sounds like you have things well in hand. For me, if the leash is on we don't greet other dogs. (There's an idea for another blog post.)

    Using attention to keep her eyes off the other dog is the right idea, as is gradually closing the distance. Let me know how it goes!
  • lesliefisher
    Buddha does indeed look a bit wild eyed! Great video. Should be easy for folks to follow. I found problem with OK as release was for myself in the classroom with Bridget, my own lab, on down stay. She took the opportunity to self release every time I said "OK" in speech, which is more often than you might think. Changed to "all done" and she now knows even that does not apply to her unless I am looking right at her to say the release.
  • For a "stay" I learned to add a gentle "tap-tap" to the release at St. Hubert's. I've always stuck with that. As a matter of fact, in class it's one of the big differences, with wait being less formal and allowing a release from a distance.
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