As I said earlier, we don’t know what our dogs are thinking, or even how they think. Chances are though, it’s not in the sentences and paragraphs that we tend to use.

But we can communicate with them. If you have any doubts, check out the agility videos in my videos section and explain to me how that trainer achieved that level of performance without an almost constant stream of communication between himself and his dog.

The most basic form of communication in training is the positive reward marker. It is a signal (usually audible) indicating that the behavior being performed at that very moment is correct or desirable. Some trainers use a clicker (a small device that makes a clicking noise) while others use a word such as “Yes”. With marine animals some trainers use a whistle. The only real requirement is a signal that is distinct.

The marker is “loaded” or “charged” by creating an association between the marker and a reinforcer, usually food. This is done by giving the signal and following it with the reward. Some trainers will do this in conjunction with a basic behavior such as making eye contact, other will just pair the two stimuli until the relationship is apparent to the dog.

One important aspect of the positive reward marker is that the reinforcer does not have to immediately follow the signal - there can be a delay of a few seconds.

A clear and unambiguous means of communication has now been established: when this signal is sent a reward will follow. The implication being, “I like it when you do that.” Moreover, we can give this signal at the moment of the desired behavior and then reward our dogs a few seconds later: we not only don’t have to carry the food in hand, we can hide it, paving the way for removing constant rewards and also replacing food with other reinforcers such as play.

Being able to send this clear signal whenever we see what we like (and are prepared to reward it) is very powerful. We can communicate behaviors we want to see more of, even when we didn’t ask for them. For example, every time a jumpy puppy’s rear end touches the floor we can mark that moment. Over time, jumping may decrease. Every time a distracted dog looks at his human, the moment can be marked. Where will the distracted dog’s attention tend to wander to more often?

Training behaviors also becomes much easier. We can now communicate exactly what we are looking for, as opposed to communicating what we do not want, which may mean repeated punishments and maybe even training by process of elimination.

I want my dog to sit when I ask:

1) I lure her into a sit and reward her her for it.
2) I start to say “sit” and then lure her into it and reward her.
3) Lather, rinse, repeat.
4) After a few more trials she sits when I say sit.

I didn’t teach her how to sit. I taught her what the “sit” sound means.

In order to be successful, training needs to involve two way communication. While dogs don’t speak in sentences and it is literally impossible for us to get “inside their heads” they are constantly providing information to to us via “body language” and their behaviors.

There is one form of communication that we primates use that dogs can use in almost the same way: eye contact. Eye contact means “you have my attention.” When we call our dog’s name, what we are looking for is eye contact, very much the same way we expect it when we call a person’s name.

When we train behaviors such as wait, stay and heel, we “shape” our dogs into giving us eye contact. A good trainer never releases a dog from a wait or a stay without eye contact and most trainers are probably more concerned with where their dog is looking during a “heel” than anything else.

Last week I was out walking one of my dogs early in the morning. I was not feeling well and was really not very connected to Gage at the time. We walked across a long municipal parking lot that is always empty at that time of day to his favorite spot, just outside the entrance. This is a very quiet area and Gage is probably my best loose leash walker, so I can get away with not paying attention.

We got to the far end of the lot and went through the smaller part of the entrance gate for people. The larger part (for vehicles) was closed and locked. After we went through, we stopped. I stood there for a moment, probably still under the influence of Nyquil and definitely inadequately caffeinated. I looked down at Gage. His body was pointed across the entrance of the lot, directly at his favorite spot. He turned and looked me dead in the eye, as if to say “Can we go there? I really need to go.” We did, and he did.

We brought Gage into our home about 3 years ago. He was already 6 - 8 months old and terrified of everything, especially people. Getting any sort of eye contact from him was very difficult. He now uses it to tell me where to walk him.

Two-way communication indeed.

Meanwhile dogs don’t send or receive very much information vocally. Sure, there are plenty of dogs - entire breeds actually - that seem to love the sound of their own barking, but this is not a dog’s primary way of transmitting or and this is important, receiving information.

I’ll repeat that.

Vocal communication is not a dog’s primary way of transmitting or and this is important, receiving information.

When we train a dog to do something “on command”, such as sit when we say “sit” or lie down when say “down,” we are not teaching them what those words mean. We have assigned a sound (a cue) to an action. We could just as easily get them to sit when we ring a bell or lie down when we snap our fingers.

When we repeat our commands to a dog, one of two things happen. They either learn to not respond the first time: “sit” becomes “sit. sit. sit.” Or worse, they learn to ignore it completely. Think of what happens when the radio stations discover (or decide) that a song is popular. After the 1,000,000,000,000th time it comes on you don’t hear it (or are tempted to jump out of the car, but I digress.)

This effect is what trainers are trying to avoid when they tell you to not repeat your commands. It’s really tempting to repeat a cue when a dog doesn’t respond right away and even the “pros” do it at times, but there’s good reason to try to say things once and wait it out.

When food is used properly in training it is being used as a reinforcer. This type of training uses operant conditioning to teach (or perhaps un-teach) a dog behaviors. (Think of the word operant in terms of operating on the environment and being conditioned by the result.)

Food is used most often as a positive reinforcer: something that is presented when a dog performs a behavior that we want to see more frequently. The addition (that’s where positive comes from) of the food reinforces the behavior.

The science behind this influences everything from which park benches pigeons return to in city parks to whether or not you are going to order takeout from the same restaurant you did last Friday night. It’s not up for debate. It’s a natural phenomena.

The reinforcer doesn’t have to be food. It just has to be, well…reinforcing. Some dogs will “work” for a game of fetch while others will watch you throw the ball and just stand there. Some dogs will work for a game of tug, others a scratch behind the ears, and still others an opportunity to chew on an old shoe.

Trainers use food for a very simple reasons: most dogs will work for food. Some may require really interesting food, and others may even need to be fed a meal during training (I.E. not fed before class), but when it comes to reinforcers food is the lowest common denominator and works very well in a room with 6 or 7 other dogs.

A good trainer will introduce the idea of using other reinforcers early in your training and get the treat out of your hands very quickly, but there’s nothing wrong with using food in a classroom to introduce new behaviors. As a matter or fact, there’s some pretty basic science behind it.

First, it’s worth explaining what I think a leash is used for: keeping your dog from walking (or running) away from you. That’s it. Nothing more, nothing less. (It’s not a means of communication, but that’s a different discussion.)

So right off the bat, the retractable leash sends a mixed signal - sometimes your dog can walk away from you, and sometimes she can’t. How does she know? She pulls and sees if she can. If she can’t, she tries again. And again. And again. Already you can see how training a dog to walk nicely on a leash when pulling on the leash is how she figures out if it’s OK to walk away from you is nearly impossible.

As far as classes go, retractable leashes are almost impossible to use effectively. During a class you need to be able to keep your dog near (which is difficult enough if it is her first class,) have a hand free for treats, perhaps have another hand free for a clicker an oh yeah, learn something. The retractable leash makes this twice as difficult with its rather large handle and its tendency to slip into “unlocked mode.” I frequently recommend that students step on their leash while working on an exercise in order to free up a hand, but this doesn’t work with retractable leashes either because the fine nylons leads will slip under most shoes.

Last, and by no means not the least, is safety. After effectively training your dog to pull on leash, you are now betting her safety on two things: that you will have the leash “locked” when it needs to be and that the locking mechanism will hold at the critical moment when your dog lunges after a tennis ball on the street, a squirrel or another dog that doesn’t want to be lunged at.

If you want to give your dog some freedom, buy a long line and a “snap-back” and find a safe place to play. With some practice and some training, a long line can be a lot more fun anyway!

Don’t know what agility is? To oversimplify, it’s essentially an obstacle course for dogs.

Take a look at this video (with a slightly odd ending):

and here’s the same team, on a different run from a different angle:

Playing tug - which is similar, but slightly different from this tug page.

Body Language - which is also similar to a page here.

and a new page about training with treats which will have a companion page here next week.

Check ‘em out and enjoy!

Not strictly dog-related, but very cool nonetheless. According to the editors at Scientific American belugas and dolphins both have a knack for bubble-ring-blowing. ]]> http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/28/157/feed/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/27/mocha-the-mighty/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/27/mocha-the-mighty/#comments Sun, 27 Jan 2008 18:58:06 +0000 Eric Goebelbecker http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/27/mocha-the-mighty/

Mocha is a Silky Terrier puppy in Northern New Jersey. Her Mom decided to start her out with training at the tender young age of 12 weeks, which is a great time for a puppy.

Mocha did wonderfully! She and her Mom did a wonderful job with clicker training and Mocha’s progress with “sit”, “down”, “wait”, “come when called”, “leave it” and even “stay” (an advanced behavior for a young puppy) would be impressive for an adult dog, let alone a young puppy.

Mocha also plays a great game of tug, and by the time she’s an adult there’s a chance she’ll be competing in the Olympic High Jump Competition.

This is an article in 2 parts. Part 2 is here, This part is more “talk,” while the other has more photos and two very informative videos. Reading this page first will give you a deeper understanding of the topic.

Canine body postures are usually interpreted in terms of emotional states: happy, angry, aggressive etc. Since we cannot prove that dogs think in a language, the term “postures” is usually preferred.

Some people do attempt to assign more sophisticated reasoning to body postures, On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals - suggests that dogs send signals out to other creatures in a deliberate effort to mediate and/or prevent conflict. This implies that dogs think on a very sophisticated level; that they have theory of mind This is a controversial topic in some circles. For more information check out the book and the wikipedia article.

Regardless of how you feel about “calming signals,” dogs do constantly send signals that provide us with information about their emotional states, and being aware of them can improve our relationship with them and prevent unnecessary conflicts.

If there is one most important rule to “reading” dogs it that it is never correct to read a dog based on one particular part or aspect of his posture. A wagging tail in and of itself means nothing. Neither does a wagging tongue, forward ears or raised hackles. Always look at the entire dog in context.

This a happy dog that is soliciting play. She is in a "play bow" (which is difficult to see from this photo), where the front legs are bent with the elbows touching the ground and the rear end high in the air. A "play bow" looks a lot like a stretch.

Her mouth is open with loose lips and a flapping tongue. Her eyes are "soft" and just "look" happy. Here is where context becomes very important. I took this photo, and I know that the dog wanted to play - it is difficult to translate that context without telling a whole story. (I won’t.) However, under different circumstances, for example with a strange dog and no play bow, a dog looking me in the eye would mean something different.

Some indicators of a happy dog are:
- relaxed, loose, body
- fast, vigorous tail wag, usually involving the entire rear end
- tail thumping on the floor when sitting or lying down
- loose “floppy” lips
- open mouth with a loose tongue
- rhythmic, slowing panting (as opposed to rapdi panting, which means exertion or excitement)

This dog is fearful and intimidated. His ears are pulled back - something you would know if you had seen the dog when not fearful. Here again, context is key. He seems to be leaning or pulling away from the camera and he has a "half moon" eye - part of the white is showing. His lips are pulled back into a fear grimace. (Again, easier to see if you know the dog)

The "half-moon" eye can also indicate agitation or potential aggression - either way, this is a dog that you want to leave alone.

Another key signal from an anxious dog is a sudden out-of-context action such as:
- repeated yawning
- licking chops without the presence of food, usually to the nose
- sudden scratching and biting at self
- suddenly sniffing the ground or other object

We call these “displacement behaviors,” where the dog almost seems to be looking for something else to do to distract himself of the other individual. Think of looking at your watch or Blackberry while riding in the elevator with a stranger or someone you don’t want to talk to.

This dogs looks aggressive. While it is difficult to see, his eyes seem fixed on one point ahead. The eyes also look very different from the friendly dog before. They have an unquantifiable “hard” aspect to them.

The dog seems to be leaning forward. His ears may even be pointing forward. The lips are also pushed forward, in what appears to be a snarl. The entire dog seems to be pointing ahead, toward his target.

Some key signs that may indicate aggression -
- piloerection; raising of the “hackles” indicates excitement and arousal. This may mean aggression, or it may just mean excitement. Context is very important yet again.
- staring - dogs don’t tend to stare at something or someone for very long unless they are ready to lunge or give chase.
- tight, stiff body postures.
- raised posture. An agressive dog tries to look big
- tight lips, front teeth exposed

Update: check out the extended version of this page on Squidoo

Playing tug is a great way to have fun, bond with your dog, and provide him or her with important exercise and mental stimulation. Fitting it into your dog’s exercise regimen has many benefits for both you and her.

Some clients are surprised that I recommend playing tug because they have been told it teaches dogs to bite or develop other nasty habits. Others have been told to make sure they always “win” because of that mystical “pack leader” thing they hear about on TV.

Because of these myths, I think it’s worth providing a quick demo and explaining how I have been taught to play tug and how it can be a fun, rewarding, and educational game.

Tug must be played with rules. These rules keep people and dogs safe.

1) The toy is released when the dog is told to release it.
2) Teeth never touch the person or the person’s clothes.
3) The toy is only taken when permission is given.
4) The human is responsible for keeping things under control.

A game of tug should pretty much follow this script: the dog performs a behavior (or few) on cue, offer the toy, play tug, the dog releases the toy on cue…lather, rinse, repeat.

The commands in between the tug sessions perform a few functions. First, they mix in some mental stimulation in with the physical exercise. They also act as a control for the dogs excitement level. If your dog start to get too wild, mix in more behaviors in between sessions, maybe ask for a “wait” or a “stay” as demonstrated in the video. The play sessions in the video were made deliberately slow and sedate because I was limited in what I could film and wanted to keep the action easy to follow.

Finally, mixing in the cues is training the dog without treats. After a few sessions, you should have dog that will “work” for a tug toy. How cool is that?

In the video Caffeine has a hard time giving up the tug toy (it’s Buddha’s and she is obsessed with it,) which gives me an opportunity to point out how to deal with a dog that will not release the toy: stop playing. Don’t yell, don’t pull harder - just stop. Pulling and raising your voice will simply excite the dog and probably make her think you are still playing. Stopping makes the game boring.

When initially introducing the release cue, you may need to use food. Take a treat and literally place it on her nose. She’ll open her mouth, dropping the toy, and take the treat. Say “yes!” and then give the tug toy back. After a few repetitions, say “give” or “release” (or whatever cue you wish to use) before you place the treat on her nose. After a few sessions, stop using the treat.

If teeth touch you or your clothes. Stop the game. Again, do not get excited, push or shout. The game stops and the dog has to calm down before the game continues.

Gage is initially not interested in playing tug at all. He is a very nervous dog and, believe or not, is shy around the camera. I took advantage of this and started out with the same mistake many people make: I held the toy up in front of his face and waited for him to take it. Most dogs, especially a nervous one, will not respond to this. I coaxed him into playing by soliciting a chase, a strategy that usually works with a reluctant dog. Sometimes you have to try tricks to make the toy a bit more interesting.

Also, some dogs have preferences when it comes to toys. Caffeine usually plays with a plain nylon rope. She will not under any circumstances play with the cotton rope toy I use with Gage. Gage would immediately tear the Buddha’s sheepy tug or Caffeine’s rope to shreds with his “hard” mouth and the way he pulls when he finally gets excited.

Find a toy that your dogs loves and use it only for tug. When the game is over, put it away, out of sight. When the tug toy comes out, your dog should always be excited and ready to play!

Tug teaches your dog how to play. Rather than teaching them to bite, it teaches them what to bite and when. Dogs know how to bite - the trick is to get them to bite the right things - toys. Tug doesn’t have winners or losers (unless you count the poor toy.)

Now go play with your dog!

Go ahead, read while I wait.

Done? Good. So let’s recap: A greyhound, which is bred to chase, capture and kill small game, attacked and severely injured a small fluffy animal. The small fluffy animal was a dog, which the owner (and apparently the reporter) think should make a difference.

It doesn’t. (That’s a PDF.)

Even without being present, I feel confident saying that the greyhound didn’t “turn mean.” He turned greyhound. Neither of these dogs should have been allowed to get close to each other at all off leash, and on leash they shouldn’t have been allowed to get close enough to each other to bite.

Obviously, the owner of the greyhound was irresponsible.

But, quoting the article:

“She acknowledged that Lafayette’s dog park has a separate enclosure for smaller dogs, but she said Shiloh was attacked on the way out of the park and that small dogs shouldn’t have to be hustled under lock and key out of the dog park for fear of being mauled.”

She wasn’t exactly acting responsibly either. A cynical person might say that she seems to think it’s everyone else’s job to be responsible so that her dog can run free without her worrying about it.

Either her dog was in the same area as the larger dogs, or if you read the comments where she sort of changes her story a little, her little fluffy dog was traveling through the large dog area. In coursing that’s called “the lure.”

My objective isn’t to trash this story, or diminish the seriousness of what happened to this poor dog. It’s to tell you this: stay away from dog parks, or at a minimum know exactly where you are taking your dog, who is going to be there, what to expect, and how to keep your dog safe and under control.

Never assume the other person is being more responsible than you. If you do, then you’re right.

What would do if your dog was injured? This isn’t something we like to think about, but it can certainly happen. Above is a very helpful video on how to perform CPR on a dog from Pets America.

Also, Here is a helpful PDF from Drs. Lori (DMV) and Henry (MD) Feldman.

Pulling on leash is a common problem for most dog owners. While there is no “quick fix” for this problem, sometimes equipment can help quite a bit with training. Dogs pull on leash because it works, or at least they think is does. They want to go somewhere, they pull, they get there. So how do you stop it?

1. Don’t let them pull.
2. Reward them when they don’t.

Sounds easy. It actually is, if you have the patience and can handle some very, very short in distance but long in time walks.The most direct way to train walking nicely on leash is to reward it.

The Easy Walk Harness simplifies this process by greatly hampering the dog’s ability to pull. Putting the leash clasp in front of the dog reduces her leverage, and literally turns her around when she pulls. It also makes handling a large, strong, dog possible for smaller people.

It’s not a panacea, and training is still required , but it can be a lifesaver. ]]> http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/22/easy-walk-harness/feed/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/22/dog-vs-balloons/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/22/dog-vs-balloons/#comments Tue, 22 Jan 2008 01:24:08 +0000 Eric Goebelbecker http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/22/dog-vs-balloons/

This is pretty entertaining, and good example of a creative way to exercise your dog. Simon seems to be a Jack Russell Terrier, and probably has a lot energy and a desire to chase and bite things. If he doesn’t eat the balloons, letting him have some fun by giving him something he is permitted to chase and bite is not a bad idea.

I love when the guy calls off the time part way through…I swear it looks like Simon speeds up.

I’m frequently asked about Cesar Millan, National Geographic Channel’s ironically-named “Dog Whisperer.” I can’t really say that I am a fan.

This article about Dr. Ian Dunbar, an icon in the dog training world, has an interesting sidebar comparing Dr. Dunbar and Mr. Millan. The article has a lot of information about Dr. Dunbar himself, and is worth a read for anyone interested in how dogs really learn and should be taught. ]]> http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/21/the-dog-whisperer/feed/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/20/january-newsletter/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/20/january-newsletter/#comments Sun, 20 Jan 2008 23:36:37 +0000 Eric Goebelbecker http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/20/january-newsletter/

It’s come to my attention that despite my best efforts the January Newsletter still looks terrible in Gmail.

Here’s a link to the newsletter that you can view in your favorite web browser: January 2008 ]]> http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/20/january-newsletter/feed/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/20/group-class-private-lessons/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/20/group-class-private-lessons/#comments Sun, 20 Jan 2008 04:51:40 +0000 Eric Goebelbecker http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/20/group-class-private-lessons-or-board-and-train/

Many people are confused about the different options available for seeing a dog trainer. The three most frequently offered options – group classes, private lessons and “board and train” are sometimes presented as being in opposition or even as mutually exclusive. The truth is each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Before comparing the methods, let’s discuss dog training and highlight some of the different reasons people have for seeking it out.

Many people see a dog trainer because of one or more behavioral problems. These problems can range from jumping on guests or barking too much all the way to serious bites and aggression. The solutions to these problems are also varied. Some dogs only need some basic obedience training or an outlet for excess energy. Others need serious behavior modification and "training" may not even be the proper term for what is required. Some may even require medication along with the behavior modification and require intervention from a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist.

Other people seek dog training because of behavior requirements or desires. Some people always seek training when they get a new dog, in an attempt to proactively prevent problems before they occur. Or they wish for their dog to act in a certain way, such as sitting politely for greetings, walking nicely on a leash, or waiting politely at doors. Others have a desire to engage in canine sports such as agility, competitive obedience, Frisbee or Rally Obedience.

With these requirements in mind, how does each training situation compare?

Board and Train
In a board and train engagement, the dog is brought to a trainer’s facility where it lives while it is trained.

Advantages - the trainer has control over the dog’s environment, and can guarantee the consistency that some behavior modification programs require. In as little as a week, an effective trainer can make considerable progress, especially when compared to the average family that has to worry about work, school and other activities while also trying to train the dog.

Disadvantages – an important part of effective dog training is creating a bond and establishing the relationship(s) between the people and the dog. This element is missing from a board and train, and the dog (and the people) will still need training after the board and train is finished. Similarly, an important part of training and behavior modification programs is the environment, so the work done in a boarding facility will still need to be "transferred" to home.

Private Lessons
With private lessons, the trainer works individually with the dog(s) and the person(s), either in the home or at a training facility.

Advantages – the trainer has the benefit of direct contact with the dog and the person (or people) involved. A skillful trainer will use this contact to personally strengthen the bond between the dog and the people. If the training is done in the home, the trainer also has the advantage of seeing the dog is his “native” environment. For behavioral problems this can be very advantageous.

Disadvantages – a critical part of a dog’s development is socialization. If a dog is only trained in isolated circumstances and doesn’t get adequate exposure to other dogs, people, places, and sights and sounds, an important part of his development is neglected.

Group Classes
In a group class the dog and one (or more) people travel to a classroom and are taught in a classroom environment with one or more other dogs.

Advantages – the dog and the person are working together, usually for the entire class. Ideally, the human is being taught how to train his or her dog. The classroom environment creates a degree of peer pressure, frequently pushing people to try things they wouldn’t normally do on their own. The dogs get controlled exposure to other dogs, under the supervision of an experienced trainer.

Disadvantages – some dogs just don’t do well with other dogs and/or strange people. Likewise, some people do not do well in a classroom environment. While a classroom is a great environment for learning basic and advanced obedience (and sports) it is not the proper environment for behavior issues, unless it is a class specially designed for dogs with similar issues.

When selecting a trainer and a type of training arrangement, be sure you have your goals well established, and consider the different advantages and disadvantages of each arrangement. Above all, make absolutely sure you are getting training that suits your needs.

Welcome to the new dogspelledforward.com!

This site is designed to make it easier for us to provide you with new information on a more regular basis. If there is any information that you would like us to add sooner rather than later let us know.

We now offer an RSS feed for those of you that know what RSS is. Otherwise, we have an e-mail list that will keep users up to date on new content.

Many new changes are on the horizon. Please check back soon!

Caffeine arrived at the Goebelbecker household first, at the tender age of 12 weeks. She rules the roost, she is the Queen of the Castle. She’s the boss.

She’s spoiled rotten, but don’t tell her I said that. She’d kill me.

Caffeine is a very quick learner. She’s been through several agility classes, where she’s proven to be very fast and very skillful. If her Dad ever takes some time off from training everyone’s else’s dog, he’ll take her to some trials.

With her permission, of course.

Gage is a rescue from Georgia. He arrived a few years ago and entered the Goebelbecker household originally as a foster. After some time it became apparent that he had serious fear and anxiety issues that made him unadoptable. He hates trucks and any vehicle with a loud engine, and he would like very much to never meet anyone new ever again. After three years he is just now able to handle being walked on a busy street.

So he never left, and he has fit in very well.

Gage worships the very ground that Caffeine the Princess, er, walks on. He is very fearful of strangers, but is very very affectionate with members of the household. After six months now, he and Buddha have established detente.

Gage is never going to join Mensa, and his career as a nuclear physicist was tragically cut short when it turned out he had to be able to recognize himself in a mirror. But we have heard that some airlines could use a new CEO. Hmmmm…maybe he’s overqualified.

First, some general training tips:

• Focus on the behavior you want rather than the behavior you do not want. It’s a lot easier to train a new behavior than it is to un-train an old one. Try teaching a new behavior that is incompatible with the one you are trying to eliminate, I.E. sitting for a greeting rather than jumping.
• Keep sessions short and fun. Four 15 minute sessions during the week will be much more effective than a single one hour session.
• Always finish with success I.E, don’t keep pushing until your dog is too tired or confused to work for you. Quit while you are ahead!
• When introducing a new behavior, start with no distractions. Start teaching new behaviors in a quiet area, before trying to teach them outside in a park or city street where your dog will have a hard time focusing on you.

Here’s a list of tips:

• Jumping up - helping for dogs that jump up on strangers and visitors
• Crate Training - helping getting a dog accustomed to being in a crate, which can be a very valuable management tool when used wisely
• House Training - help with one of the most common problems with new dogs
• Playing Tug - how to play tug safely and train your dog at the same time
• Body Language - interpreting your dog’s body language

We feel the an educated dog owner is our best client. We have assembled a list of books that will be helpful for anyone interesting in better understanding their canine companions:

The Other End of the Leash - in this book renowned ethologist takes you about as close a one can get to being inside a dog’s head, and helps you understand why they do the sometimes strange and infuriating things they do.

The Culture Clash - sometimes called “Dr. Spock for Dogs,” but as opposed to that famous book, this book is very up-to-date and scientifically accurate. Jean Donaldson, the director of the prestigious San Francisco SPCA changed the dog training world, and many lives, for the better with this book.

For the Love of a Dog: Understanding Emotion in You and Your Best Friend - an in depth look at the human-dog relationship and emotions in dogs.

Don’t Shoot the Dog! - another landmark book in the dog training world. This book introduces very important concepts that all trainers and dog owners should be familar with. While the book focuses on clicker training, it is applicable to all methods and all species - not just dogs. Written by Karen Pryor, another pioneer in bringing behavioral science into wider use in dog training.

Dogs: A New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior and Evolution - where do domestic dogs come from? A fascinating read.

]]> http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/19/ttips-top/feed/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/18/what-is-the-secret-of-housetraining/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/18/what-is-the-secret-of-housetraining/#comments Fri, 18 Jan 2008 21:15:32 +0000 Eric Goebelbecker http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/18/what-is-the-secret-of-housetraining/

The secret to house-training is, alas, there is no secret. House-training requires time, patience and above all, consistency. There is no secret formula, no high-tech tool and no magic technique.

In a nutshell, house-training consists of the following steps:
1. Scheduling - establish a schedule for food and elimination.
2. Supervision - until the puppy or dog is reliable, regulate his/her freedom in the house.
3. Training - when the dog needs to go, take him/her to a regular spot and reward the dog for going there.

Before the dog comes home establish a place for the dog to stay when unsupervised. While implementing a house-training program, “unsupervised” refers to a dog that is not accompanied by a human that is carefully observing his or her behavior. Untrained dogs must be confined to a safe place where they will not eliminate. Dogs, including puppies, will not soil where they sleep - this is where crate-training and house-training overlap. If you cannot or will not use a crate, identify another spot, such as a small laundry area or bathroom. Use small gates or an exercise pen to cordon off a small area for the dog to sleep in. If the area is too
large, the dog may find a spot to soil. Their instinct is to not soil where they sleep: they don’t automatically know not to soil an arbitrarily enclosed area.

At the same time, establish a toilet area. It is important that you establish, from the very beginning, where it is acceptable for the dog to relieve him or herself. For very young puppies it may be a good idea to have a spot prepared outside near the door that resembles the sort of place you will want your dog to use as an adult, such as wood chips, leaves or sand. Dogs are quite literally “creatures of habit” and tend to favor certain places and surfaces, so if you train your puppy to go on the roses….you may end up creating a lifetime habit.

On a related note, if your goal is have the dog consistently go outside, it’s best to skip paper or “wee-wee pad” training if at all possible, since you will eventually have change that habit too. Of course, it you have a very small puppy and are training during extreme weather, it may be unavoidable.

When you first get your puppy home, you should take a trip to the vet as soon as possible. Urinary tract infections and other medical conditions can make house training almost impossible.

Finally, establish the schedule. The schedule needs to be one that both you and the puppy or dog can stick to. Puppies can only “hold
it” for so long so more frequent “potty breaks” must be allowed. Meals should be scheduled regularly, not free fed throughout the day. However, never deprive a puppy of water for the sake of house-training!

At the same time, make sure the schedule is one that you can stick with. The dog cannot fit into a schedule if you cannot either.

Once a schedule and sleeping and potty locations have been established, training begins. Training is simply a matter of supervising the dog in the house, taking her outside at regular intervals, and placing her in her sleeping location when she cannot be supervised.

If you know where she is at all times and what he is doing, accidents don’t happen. If an accident does it is your fault: you either left her unsupervised or failed to read a signal. Never, ever, ever punish a dog for making a mess. At best, the dog has no idea why you are upset. At worst, the dog will be afraid of eliminating in your presence, which will make house-training almost impossible. Remember, other than not soiling his sleeping area, the dog has to be trained. He does not understand what the fuss is about.

When a puppy stops playing and starts sniffing and hunting around as if looking for something, that “something” is probably a good spot. Calmly and quickly take him outside to the designated spot. After a few times, you will learn the signals and probably start to anticipate when your dog needs to go.

Regardless of what you are doing, have the dog with you. Give the pup some of his toys to play with. If you are moving around a lot, keep him on leash. If you are seated at the sofa or computer, give him some toys. But keep watching! This is where consistency comes in. For the first few days, your dog will require constant and consistent supervision.

When it comes time to take the dog outside, whether as scheduled or because he seems to need to go, follow the same procedure:

Take your dog out on leash to the designated toilet area. Do not send him out. Go with him so you know what he actually did and so that it is clear why you are going out: going out to play and going out to “make” are two different activities, at least until the dog is trained. Stand quietly, and let him find the right spot. If after a few minutes or so (it will be different for each dog, some are real fussbudgets about that perfect spot) he hasn’t eliminated, go back inside. Again: it should be clear why you went to that spot. Try again in a 1/2 hour or so.

When he actually does go, praise him enthusiastically. Let him know that you are very proud of him, and reward with a game of tug, fetch or maybe a treat. This is your chance to create a positive association with going outside, at the spot, in front of you - and that is what you want!

Remember your dog’s routine. Most dogs will develop a pattern regarding time of day and what happens when. This pattern will obviously change as the dog matures. While you are learning your dog’s routine, take him out immediately after he wakes up, after he has eaten and after all play sessions.

Once a dog is house-trained, it is very rare that he “loses” it. If a previously trained dog starts to have accidents, your first step should always be a trip to the vet.

If you have or know of a video that might fit in here let us know.

Dogs like to greet each other nose-to-nose. When they see a familiar human, jumping up to reach their face is a very natural reaction. Some view this jumping up as an attempt to overpower or “dominate” people while the opposite is more likely to be true — puppies tend to greet their mothers with face-face contact and licking their lips. Jumping up to reach your face is frequently a sign of appeasement and not a threat.

This desire to say hello, along with mixed signals from humans makes jumping up a very difficult behavior to eliminate. Fortunately, with a bit of time, a lot of patience, and most important, consistency, you can address this problem. They key is to give your dog an alternative to jumping up, such as politely sitting and waiting to be greeted.

Jumping up to greet strangers while walking in parks or on the street is a common complaint, and can also be one of the most embarrassing things a dog can do. But like the songs says, you can get by with a little help from your friends.

Jumping up on the street

Recruit two or three helpers for a 10-minute training session. It’s important to work for short periods of time — never more than 15 minutes, and to make sure you quit on a high note. Don’t keep training until everyone is tired and you are doing nothing more than practicing mistakes!

Walk your furry friend (let’s call him Buddy) clockwise around the block, while your helpers walk counter-clockwise, separate from each other. When Buddy meets the first helper and commences his hearty greeting, the helper should act like she’s completely offended and appalled — gasping and moving away. Give the “sit” cue and reward Buddy with a treat when he sits. Have your helper approach again, and if Buddy remains seated, have your helper greet him calmly, without encouraging him to jump up. If Buddy jumps, repeat. Repeat with the various helpers until Buddy catches on and sits automatically each time a helper approaches.

But remember! Never train for more than 10 or 15 minutes at a time! Lassie didn’t pass her first audition either.

Chaos At The Front Door

Another common time for a dog to jump up is when you arrive home, simply because they are so thrilled by your return. Try the following exercise when you come home.

Start by being mentally and physically prepared to be jumped on. For the first few exercises, don’t wear nice clothes when you are practicing, and be ready to spend some extra time. When you are returning from somewhere such as work, have treats prepared at the door or in the car too. If you are concerned about your clothes, consider stashing a smock or long coat in the care too.

When you are entering the door, don’t have valuables or groceries in your arms; wait until the dog is under control before trying to bring them in. When you open the door, if Buddy jumps up, step back and close the door (making sure everyone is on the proper side of the door). Repeat this until Buddy sits without jumping and without the "sit" cue. Be prepared to repeat this many times the first time you try, but remember never more than 10 to 15 minutes. Also, if buddy sits, reward him — even if it is only for a few seconds. Once you get that pause, quit the first session and try to get a slightly longer pause next time.

When you are training your dog to stop jumping up, never raise your voice, push your dog away, or try to "knee" him. These actions will tend to make Buddy more excited, and only make things worse.

While your are training your dog for any behavior try to keep these things in mind: Keep sessions short Keep sessions happy. Never lose your temper. If you feel your patience starting to slip, take a break or call it quits. You and your dog should enjoy training. Always end a session with success. Always leave — and enter — on a high note. Good luck and most of all, have fun!

Should I Crate Train My Dog?

Crate training can be a confusing issue for some dog owners, especially those adopting a rescue or shelter dog. The idea of confining a dog to a “cage” seems a little bit cruel - maybe even inhumane - but many dog trainers and behaviorists seem to recommend it. What’s the real deal?

A crate can be a powerful training and management tool, but it is not always necessary. It is most useful under two circumstances: housetraining a new puppy (or adult dog that has not been housetrained, such as some dogs from shelters or rescues) and preventing destructive behavior when you cannot monitor the dog yourself to prevent it. There are other applications, but these two are the most common reasons.

Is confining a dog to a crate cruel? When used properly a crate can actually enhance a dog’s life by giving him or her a comfortable place to relax, especially in a high energy and/or multiple pet households. Used improperly it can be cruel and inhumane. Let’s set some guidelines for proper use before we cover how to train your dog.

• the dog is never physically forced into a crate
• the crate is never used as a punishment
• the crate is for short term confinement, it is not a way of life for 8 hours a day, 5 days a week

Home is Where the Heart Is

The first step in crate training is convincing your dog (let’s call him “Buddy”) that the crate is a great place to be. If Buddy is a shelter or rescue dog, he may already associate the crate with long periods of isolation or other unpleasant experiences. If Buddy is a puppy or simply a dog with no crate experience, he may find the crate frightening. We will need to change how Buddy feels about the crate. Creating a positive association, with the help of food, toys and a little bit of interior decorating, does this.

Before we start training , make sure the crate is comfortable and inviting - it shouldn’t look or feel like a cage, but more like a cozy den.

Most dogs prefer “open-wire” crates to fiberglass or cloth travel crates as their permanent home. They feel more open and tend to be more comfortable, especially in warmer weather. The travel crates are great for travel since dogs tend to remain calmer when they cannot see what is going on around them, but at home Buddy will want to be able to see what is going on.

After you have selected the proper crate, fit it with a pad or blanket and, at least for the initial training, resist the urge to place it in a quiet corner or isolated area where Buddy feels he has been placed in solitary confinement. Being isolated from the rest of the family will be more stressful than being placed in a crate, this is especially true for shelter and rescues dogs, that may have already spent too much time isolated, although puppies can find isolation stressful also.

After the crate is set up, start your “The Crate is Wonderful!” PR campaign:

• Periodically, when Buddy is not around the crate or not looking, drop some treats into the crate, as far back as you can get them.
• Feed Buddy in the crate, always with the door open
• Give Buddy chew toys in the crate. If he takes the toys out of the crate to chew on them, trying tying them into the crate so he has to stay inside in order to chew on them.

After a few days, Buddy should starting hanging around the crate on his own. You may even catch him sniffing around inside, looking for the magically appearing treats or his chew toys. As soon as Buddy seems to be associating the crate with good things, start to work on an enter cue, such as “Go Home.” Toss a treat in the crate and then praise Buddy as he goes in and gets it.

Once Buddy is reliably entering the crate on cue, change the exercise slightly — instead of throwing treats into the crate first, tell him to enter, wait for him go in, and then toss him the treat. If he doesn’t go in on his own, just wait — don’t cue him again, and don’t throw the treat in. If he doesn’t go in after waiting for a few minutes, end the session. Try again in 5 minutes or so, still withholding the treat until he goes in on his own after one command. Have patience — he’ll go in eventually.

Time to Pick Out the Curtains

Now that Buddy will enter the crate on cue, our crate training can advance to the next level. Start closing the door for gradually longer periods of time. Close the door, feed him treats through the grate for a minute while calmly praising him, and then open the door. After doing this several times, close the door, give him a few treats, then get up and walk around the room for a few minutes, give him more treats, and then open the door. While you are increasing the period of time the door is closed be sure to keep the experience pleasant and positive and, above all, quit while Buddy is still having fun and before he starts to get nervous. Work your way up to at least 15 minutes, with you out of the room for at least part of the time.

After Buddy is comfortable with staying in the crate for a quarter of an hour, you should be able to quickly advance to a few hours at a time. Try it while you are home watching TV or doing housework.

If Buddy soils his crate, be sure he isn’t in the crate for too long a period of time. You might also have him checked for a bladder infection if he urinates often. This is another common issue with shelter and rescue dogs. If this doesn’t help, contact a trainer for advice. If at all possible, do not crate Buddy for more than 3-4 hours at a stretch without a break.

Over the holidays we took Caffeine and Buddha to a sheep herding instinct test, and the normally quiet, relaxed and well-behaved Buddha…ballistic. He likes dem sheep. Enjoy.

P.S. Couldn’t resist with the music. It just seem to fit.

Gage and Caffeine are enjoying a Kong and a Tug-A-Jug, respectively. Gage finishes his Kong and figures out how to open his crate…

(yes, those are affiliate links)

At Dog Spelled Forward we try to stay up to date with the latest research in animal behavior. We also believe the dog training (and life in general) should be fun, so we find the research conducted by Dr. Stuart Brown at the The National Institute for Play very interesting. There is a longer version of this video, which was part of a presentation Dr. Brown gave at TED on his site.
How does this relate to dog training? Simple. Play with your dog. Don’t just give him toys, take him to the dog park (as a matter of fact, think twice about the dog park - we’ll post some information about that soon,) or walk him: play with your dog yourself. Play tug, fetch, hide and seek, whatever she enjoys. We’ll have a separate page on play soon.

Sometimes you can’t make it to a class or a training center, or maybe you need help with a problem that is best addressed at home where the problem is most evident. For this reason, Dog Spelled Forward offers dog training and behavior consulting services in your home.

We can tailor a program to suit your schedule and your needs, whether it be a single visit, a small number of visits to address a specific issue or a in-home obedience training program in lieu of a class.

For example we can address common (and uncommon) problems such as:

• Jumping up on people
• Chaos at the front door
• House soiling and destruction
• Biting, nipping and other aggressive or obnoxious behaviors toward people
• Aggression toward dogs and other animals
• Walking politely on leash

No problem is too large or too small, and we are always willing to discuss your issue on the phone or via e-mail. Contact us today!

Every dog deserves a home, and every home deserves to be safe and happy. It’s our job to make sure the latter is true.

Whether they are brought home as a puppy or adopted later in life, dogs can present their human counterparts with a variety of issues, such as difficulties walking on leash, jumping up on people, or chewing on items that should not be chewed on. Some have more serious behavioral problems such as guarding food and toys, lunging at, snapping at or biting people or fighting with other dogs. We at DSF have the knowledge, the experience and the desire to help, regardless of how difficult or trivial the problem may seem.

We believe that all training challenges and behavioral problems are best solved with safe, humane and scientifically sound solutions.

Take a look around our site - we have some interesting videos, photos of our beautiful dogs, and an explanation of our services. ]]> http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/18/what-we-do-2/feed/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/18/jill-makoujy/ http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/18/jill-makoujy/#comments Fri, 18 Jan 2008 04:47:17 +0000 Eric Goebelbecker http://www.dogspelledforward.com/blog/2008/01/18/jill-makoujy/

Jill is an associate member of NADOI, and currently awaiting final approval of her endorsed status. She has considerable experience training dogs in group classes and private lessons. Jill is a dedicated volunteer, fostering many more rescue dogs than one can count, helping them find and adjust to their "forever" homes.

Eric is a graduate of the Level 1 Internship at Pat Miller’s Peaceable Paws. He also graduated from the Level 1 and Level 2 Instructor Training Courses offered by Dogs of Course.

Eric is also a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT), a professional member of the Associaton of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT) and a member of the board of directors of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC). He has considerable experience working with shelter and rescue dogs, and has spent 24 months as an apprentice dog trainer.





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Kevin Smith - Rottweiler

My dog had been terrorizing the neighborhood for years. After the third carcass was found, I knew it was time to do something.

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit. Aenean pellentesque felis ut nunc. Quisque sagittis tristique felis. Fusce tincidunt, est at sollicitudin elementum, massa lacus pharetra felis, quis nonummy nibh diam nec mauris. Cras feugiat nonummy augue. Suspendisse sollicitudin, nunc a ullamcorper placerat, lectus erat blandit arcu, a vestibulum quam enim sit amet ligula. Suspendisse at ante. Sed placerat ante at nibh. Donec dui tellus, mollis ut, placerat vel, iaculis fermentum, tortor. Duis condimentum sem in ante. Proin felis. Nullam enim purus, ultrices vitae, porttitor sit amet, sagittis vitae, tortor. In ligula. Vestibulum justo sem, consequat ac, iaculis nec, malesuada sed, mauris. Donec at massa et lectus ullamcorper vestibulum. Etiam non lorem. Phasellus blandit, neque ut facilisis fermentum, orci dui dapibus pede, eget porttitor lorem ligula a lectus. Nam molestie lorem id ipsum.

The newest addition to the Goebelbecker household is Buddha, a Border Collie mix from Georgia. He arrived from rescue with several broken teeth and a bullet lodged in one shoulder.

Buddha is a very quiet, sweet, dog who likes to lie quietly with a friend, whether that friend is another dog or a person. He has proven to be a quick learner and very intuitive. He had an impressive sheep herding instinct test in December of 2007. You can see it here.

Buddha has recently passed his Delta Pet Partner Test and will begin visiting the nearby children’s wing of Hackensack University Medical Center, along with local nursing homes this year. He has already earned his Canine Good Citizen.

While we work on our photo gallery, here’s some dog related photos from our Flicker account.

Dogs and people deserve happy and harmonious homes. These happy homes don’t come about by themselves. They require work; rules must be clearly defined, effectively communicated, and fairly and gently enforced. When a dog is part of the home, this almost always means some kind of training.

Our job is to help you with these things so you can create and maintain your own happy home. We do this with reward-based training methods, guiding you and your dog on how to do the right thing and leave the wrong thing behind.

Teaching your dog how to live well in human society is one of the greatest gifts you can give her. Most behavioral problems are caused by a lack of understanding and ineffective communication.

At Dog Spelled Forward we offer in-home obedience training and group classes, addressing common (and uncommon) problems such as:

• Jumping up on people
• Chaos at the front door
• House soiling and destruction
• Biting, nipping and other aggressive or obnoxious behaviors toward people
• Aggression toward dogs and other animals
• Walking politely on leash
• Choosing the right dog

No problem is too large or too small, and we are always willing to discuss your issue on the phone or via e-mail. Contact us today!

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